Make It an Upcountry Day: Kula, Lunch and Makawao

The drive up Kula Highway, lunch at Kula Bistro and exploring Makawao town.

Aloha, friends! When people ask me where to spend one perfect day on Maui, I don't send them to the beach. I send them ‘mauka’, aka up the mountain.

Upcountry is a different Maui. It can be 10 or so degrees cooler, the views stretch from the north shore to West Maui Mountains all the way down to Makena, and life slows down in the best way. I've written about why I love Upcountry before. This is the day I'd plan for you.

Morning: From makai to mauka

If you’re staying down makai side, aka by the ocean, you’ll want to start early while the air is crisp and the clouds haven't rolled in yet. Drive up Haleakala Hwy, which will go past Hali’imaile and then Pukalani, and it will eventually turn into the Kula Highway. Views will start appearing around this time. So feel free to pull over at the Kulamalu Town Center and stop by Crema for a coffee and a sweet treat. If it happens to be on a Saturday, you have to check out Maui’s favorite farmers market, open 7-11am. It’s the best on the island.

Continue heading up Kula Hwy, and try not to get distracted from all the beautiful scenary. A perfect spot to pull over is Rice Park, located just across the street from Kula Country Farms (aka the pumpkin patch). Or if you want to venture a little further, drive all the way to Keokea and park across from Grandma’s Coffee. You can go in for a quick bite or brunch, but you’ll need to walk it off! So go across the street and find Thompson Road, the perfect spot to walk off a full belly or stretch your legs. But be ready for some of the most picturesque views on the island! And if luck is on your side, you might just find a Jackson chameleon hanging off a tree branch.

Lunch: Kula Bistro

Still hungry?! This is the one I always come back to. Kula Bistro is cozy Italian comfort food with homemade pastas, delicious paninis, and a waygu bolognese that I dream about.

Best part? It's BYOB with no corkage fee, so bring that bottle or 6 pack of brews you've been saving. It's walk-in only and opens for lunch at 11, so go a little before or after the rush.

Afternoon: wander Makawao

From Kula Bistro, take Copp Road up to Kekaulike Hwy and take a left. This detour is just an added bonus of exploring and enjoying more of what upcountry is all about. If you have time, make a stop at the Kula Marketplace, located just off Haleakala Hwy. It’s a super sweet little store front that has lots of specialty and local gift items that make great souvenirs.

From here, it's a short drive to Makawao, Maui's paniolo (cowboy) town. Park near the intersection of Makawao Ave & Baldwin Ave. It’s easy walking around town to pop in and out of the boutiques, gifts stores and galleries. By the way, if you love art, the Hui Noʻeau Visual Arts Center sits on a beautiful old estate just down Baldwin Ave, about 10 mins outside of town.

One of my favorites is Designing Wahine. It’s a super cute store that has unique home decor and ocean inspired gifts. Before you leave, stop at Komoda Store & Bakery… if it’s still open. This is one of the oldest and longest running bakeries in the state. Get the stick donuts and/or cream puffs. If they are closed, come back! It’s worth the drive.

Local tips:

  • Bring a jacket. It's cooler up there than you think, especially in the early morning.

  • Check hours before you go. Small Upcountry spots keep their own schedules.

  • Drive slow. The roads are narrow and winding, and the cows have the right of way.

Could you live up here?

Every time I take someone on an Upcountry day, someone asks what it's like to live up here. Cooler nights, bigger lots, a real sense of community. If an Upcountry day makes you wonder the same thing, send me a note. I'd love to talk story.

A hui hou, Kelly


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